Lost Car Key With No Spare: Honda, Nissan, Subaru and Mazda Cost in Plano (2026)

Losing a car key is an inconvenience. Losing the only car key is a different job with a different price, and the number depends far more on what you drive than most people expect. A turn-key Civic and a push-button Outback can both be "lost my key, no spare", and the two bills can sit several hundred dollars apart. This page breaks the cost down for the four makes we see most across Collin County - Honda and Acura, Nissan and Infiniti, Subaru, and Mazda - so you know what to expect before anyone drives out. For a quote on your exact vehicle, call or text (945) 307-3827.

Quick Answer

As of October 2026, replacing a lost car key with no spare in Plano typically costs $200 to $450 for a bladed transponder key and $320 to $650 or more for a push-to-start smart key, cut and programmed at the vehicle with no tow. By make: a bladed Honda or Mazda sits at the lower end, a turn-key Subaru runs $300 to $480, and proximity-key Subarus, Nissans and Infinitis run $380 to $700 or more. The same key made while one working key still exists costs roughly half as much.

What a Lost Key With No Spare Costs in Plano

Every figure below is for the complete job done where the car sits: door opened without damage if it is locked, a new key cut, and the immobilizer taught to accept it.

Vehicle and key type	Typical Plano range (Oct 2026)	On-site time	What is included
Honda or Acura, bladed transponder key	$200 - $450	45 - 90 min	Blade cut from the vehicle key code, chip registered
Honda or Acura, push-to-start smart key	$330 - $650+	60 - 120 min	Immobilizer registry rebuilt, new fob registered
Nissan, bladed transponder key	$200 - $450	45 - 120 min	Key generated from vehicle data, immobilizer relearn
Nissan, Intelligent Key (push-button)	$320 - $650+	60 - 180 min	Security PIN step, key registry rebuilt
Infiniti, Intelligent Key	$380 - $700+	60 - 150 min	Same system as Nissan, higher part cost
Subaru, turn-key transponder	$300 - $480	60 - 120 min	Cut generated from vehicle key code
Subaru, Keyless Access proximity fob	$380 - $550+	75 - 150 min	Longer immobilizer registration
Mazda, bladed remote-head key	$200 - $390	45 - 90 min	Blade cut from the vehicle key code
Mazda, proximity smart key	$320 - $580+	60 - 150 min	Immobilizer registry rebuilt from scratch
Second key added during the same visit	$85 - $260	+15 - 25 min	Mostly the cost of the part
Emergency blade cut only, door access	$45 - $180	20 - 40 min	Opens the door, will not start the car
After-hours or emergency response	Surcharge applies	-	Confirmed on the phone before dispatch

These are ranges, not quotes. Nobody can honestly price a no-spare job to the dollar without the year, the model, the trim, and whether the car is turn-key or push-button. What the table does tell you is the bracket you are in, and the rest of this page explains what decides where in that bracket you land.

Why "No Spare" Costs More Than "One More Key"

When one working key exists, the car already trusts something. The technician uses that key to open the immobilizer's programming mode, and the new key is added beside it. It is a short job, and the price is mostly the part.

With no key at all, three extra pieces of work appear:

1. Getting in. If the car is locked, it has to be opened without damaging the door, the weather seal or the lock.
2. Making a blade with nothing to copy. The cut has to come from the vehicle itself - from the key code tied to the VIN, or by decoding a lock on the car. There is no original to trace.
3. Rebuilding trust from zero. The immobilizer has no accepted key to vouch for the new one. The technician has to gain security access to the system, usually erase the stored keys, and register the new key as the first trusted key.

That third step is where the make matters most. Each manufacturer guards the immobilizer differently, and the time it takes to get through that guard is most of the price difference in the table. Our step-by-step explainer on all keys lost, from VIN to a new key walks through each stage in more detail, and the comparison in add a key versus all keys lost shows the two jobs side by side.

Cost by Make

Honda and Acura

Honda has used an immobilizer on most models since the late 1990s, and the system is consistent enough that a no-spare Honda is usually one of the more predictable jobs we do.

Turn-key Hondas and Acuras ($200 to $450). Civic, Accord, CR-V, Fit, HR-V, older Pilot and Odyssey trims, and the turn-key ILX all use a transponder chip in the key head and, on most models from the early 2000s forward, a high-security blade with the cut milled into the side of the blade rather than along the edge. The blade is cut by code on a machine in the van. The chip is then registered through the diagnostic port. On most of these cars the old keys are erased in the same step, which matters if the lost key might be in someone else's hands.

Push-to-start Hondas and Acuras ($330 to $650 or more). Accord, Civic, CR-V, Pilot, Odyssey, Passport, Ridgeline, MDX, RDX and TLX with a start button use a proximity smart key. With no working fob, the keyless system's registry is rebuilt and a new fob is registered as the first key. Newer generations take longer than older ones, and the fob itself is the largest single part cost on the invoice.

Where Hondas go to the high end: the newest model years, a fob that has to be ordered rather than pulled from stock, and a car that is locked in a garage with a dead battery, which adds time before any key work can begin. For the full breakdown of every Honda key scenario, including spares, see our Honda and Acura key replacement cost guide.

Nissan and Infiniti

Nissan's immobilizer, the Nissan Anti-Theft System, protects key programming with a security PIN that is tied to the body control module. Getting that PIN is its own step, and it is the reason Nissan no-spare jobs have the widest time range in the table.

Turn-key Nissans ($200 to $450). Older Sentra, Versa, Altima, Frontier and Xterra models with a bladed key are the simpler Nissan jobs. The blade is cut from the key code, the PIN is obtained, and the key is registered.

Intelligent Key Nissans ($320 to $650 or more). Push-button Altima, Rogue, Murano, Pathfinder, Maxima, Sentra and Kicks models use the Intelligent Key. The procedure adds the fob registration on top of the PIN step. Nissan platforms from roughly 2019 forward use a longer security handshake than earlier cars, and some need additional hardware connected at the vehicle. Those newer cars are the ones that push toward the top of the range.

Infiniti ($380 to $700 or more). A Q50, QX50, QX60 or QX80 runs on the same architecture as its Nissan cousin. The procedure is the same family of steps. The difference on the invoice is the fob, which costs more, and the option content on larger models.

One Nissan rule is worth knowing before the appointment: registration re-registers the whole set. If a second key turns up in a drawer the day before, bring it. A key that is not present during the session will usually stop working afterward.

Subaru

Subaru no-spare jobs cost more than the equivalent Honda because the immobilizer registration takes longer and the security access is stricter on most generations.

Turn-key Subarus ($300 to $480). Outback, Forester, Impreza, Legacy and Crosstrek trims with a bladed key use a transponder registered to the immobilizer. With no working key, the blade is generated from the key code and the registration is done from scratch.

Keyless Access Subarus ($380 to $550 or more). Push-button Outback, Forester, Ascent, Legacy, Crosstrek and WRX trims use a proximity fob. The registration procedure is longer than on turn-key cars, which is the reason for the higher floor.

Subaru owners should also know that a dead 12-volt battery complicates the job. The car needs stable voltage through the whole registration, so we check the battery and support it before starting. Our Subaru key replacement cost guide covers the spare-key prices you would have paid with one key still working.

Mazda

Mazda sits at the friendlier end of the table for bladed keys and in the middle for proximity keys.

Bladed remote-head Mazdas ($200 to $390). Base-trim Mazda3, Mazda6, CX-3 and older CX-5 models use a key with the remote built into the head. With no spare, the blade is cut by code and the chip is registered through the diagnostic port.

Proximity Mazdas ($320 to $580 or more). Most CX-5, CX-30, CX-50, CX-9, CX-90 and MX-5 models with a start button use a smart key. With none left, the immobilizer registry is rebuilt. Newer Mazda generations have tightened security access, and the newest model years sit toward the top of the range.

The full list of Mazda key prices, including the spare you can add in the same visit, is in our Mazda key replacement cost guide.

What Actually Changes the Price

Bladed key or proximity fob

This is the first question we ask, because it roughly decides which half of the table you are in. A bladed key with a chip is a less expensive part and a shorter procedure. A proximity fob costs more as a part and takes longer to register. If you are not sure which you have: if you push a button to start the car and never insert a key, it is a proximity fob.

Model year

Within any make, newer model years trend toward the top of the range. Manufacturers add security layers over time, and each layer adds minutes to the session. A 2012 Altima and a 2024 Altima are both "Nissan push-button, no spare", and they are not the same job.

Whether the key code is available

A blade can be cut from the manufacturer's key code tied to your VIN, or by reading a lock on the car. The code route is faster. It is available through the registered locksmith channel once ownership is verified, which is one reason we ask for your registration or title and a photo ID. When no code is available, a lock is decoded by hand, and that adds time. More on that process is in our guide to key cutting by code or VIN with no original.

Whether the car is locked, and where it sits

A car sitting unlocked in a Plano driveway is the easy version. A locked car on the third level of a parking garage near Legacy West, nose-in against a wall with a dead battery, adds time at every step. None of that changes the key price, but access and battery support can change the total.

Fob in stock or ordered

Common fobs for common models ride in the van. A less common trim or a brand-new model year may need the fob ordered, which adds a day and occasionally a higher part cost. If you can read us the FCC ID or part number from an old fob photo or the owner's manual, we can confirm stock on the phone.

One key or two

The second key is the cheapest key you will ever buy for the car. The security access is already open, the machine is already set up, and the add-on is $85 to $260 depending on the key type. Leaving a no-spare appointment with one key puts you one loss away from paying the whole bill again.

Time of day

After-hours, weekend and holiday calls carry a surcharge. We state it on the phone before dispatch so the total is not a surprise. If the car is somewhere safe and you can wait until morning, the daytime price applies. If you cannot wait, our page on emergency automotive locksmith service after hours explains how those calls work.

Dealer Versus Mobile for a No-Spare Job

The dealer can make the key. The practical difference is logistics. With no working key, the car cannot be driven to the dealer, so it has to be towed, and the job then waits in the service queue. Many dealers also order keys rather than stock them. That is a tow bill, a wait, and the key price on top.

A mobile locksmith does the same end result where the car sits: the key is cut and registered at the vehicle, usually in one visit. For the four makes on this page, nearly every model on the road can be done this way. The exceptions are the very newest releases in their first months on sale, and we will tell you on the phone if your car is one of them rather than finding out in your driveway.

How to Keep the Bill at the Low End

• Have the VIN ready. It is on the dash at the base of the windshield, on the driver's door jamb, and on your insurance card. It lets us confirm the key type and stock before driving out.
• Have proof of ownership ready. Registration or title plus a photo ID. No legitimate locksmith should make a key for a car without it.
• Check for a hidden key first. A valet key in the owner's manual pouch, a key with a relative, a key in a coat from last winter. Even a worn key that barely works can turn a no-spare job into a cheaper add-a-key job.
• Tell us about the battery. If the car has been sitting and the battery is weak, say so. We will bring support for it instead of discovering it mid-session.
• Add the second key in the same visit. It is the difference between this being the last time and the first time.
• Call during the day if it can wait. Same key, no surcharge.

Plano-Area Scenarios

These are the patterns we see across Collin County, described so you can recognize your own situation. They are composites, not individual customer stories.

The commuter Civic. A turn-key Civic parked at an apartment complex off Preston Road, single key lost somewhere between the gym and the car. The car is unlocked on arrival, the VIN gives the key code, the blade is cut, the chip is registered and the old key is erased. This is the low end of the Honda range, and the owner adds a second key for a fraction more.

The family Rogue. A push-button Rogue in a Frisco driveway, the only Intelligent Key gone after a weekend at the lake. The PIN step and the fob registration take the session past an hour. Mid-range for a Nissan, higher if it is one of the newer model years.

The used Outback bought with one key. The Outback came from a dealer lot with a single fob, and eighteen months later that fob is gone. Proximity Subaru, no spare, battery a little tired from sitting. Battery support first, then the longer registration. Upper half of the Subaru range.

The CX-5 after a move. A CX-5 owner in Allen loses both smart keys in a move - one packed in an unlabeled box, one simply gone. The registry is rebuilt with two new keys. When the boxed key surfaces a month later, it no longer starts the car, which is expected: it was erased with the lost one, and it can be re-registered as a third key.

What to Do Right Now If Your Only Key Is Gone

1. Retrace the last hour before assuming it is lost. Check the ignition, the door, the trunk lid and the ground around the car.
2. If the key may have been stolen with anything showing your address, tell us. Erasing the old key from the car is part of the job and takes that worry off the table.
3. Find your VIN and your registration or insurance card.
4. Note whether the car is locked, and whether it is turn-key or push-button.
5. Call or text (945) 307-3827 with the year, make, model and those answers. That is enough for a real range on the phone.

If the car shows a flashing security or key light and will not start even though you still have a key, that is a different problem. Start with our guide to an immobilizer light on with no start, or see our lost car keys service page for how a dispatch works.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much does it cost to replace a lost car key with no spare in Plano?

As of October 2026, expect $200 to $450 for a bladed transponder key and $320 to $650 or more for a push-to-start smart key, cut and programmed at the vehicle. Turn-key Subarus run $300 to $480, and proximity-key Subarus, Nissans and Infinitis run $380 to $700 or more.

Why is a lost key with no spare more expensive than a spare key?

With no working key, the blade has to be generated from vehicle data and the immobilizer has to be accessed and rebuilt from zero. With a working key present, the new key is simply added beside it. The no-spare job is longer, and the price follows the time.

Do I have to tow my Honda, Nissan, Subaru or Mazda to the dealer?

In nearly every case, no. The key is cut and registered where the car sits. The exceptions are a small number of very new models in their first months on sale, and we confirm that by VIN on the phone before dispatch.

Will the lost key still start my car if someone finds it?

Not after the job is done properly. On most Honda, Nissan, Subaru and Mazda systems the stored keys are erased when the new key is registered, so the lost key will no longer start the engine. Ask for this specifically if the key may have been stolen.

What do I need to have ready?

The VIN, proof of ownership such as your registration or title, a photo ID, and the year, make, model and whether the car is turn-key or push-button. That lets us confirm the key type and bring the right part.

How long does a no-spare key replacement take?

Most bladed keys take 45 to 90 minutes on site. Push-to-start jobs usually take 60 to 150 minutes, and newer Nissan platforms can run toward three hours because of the longer security procedure.

Is it worth getting two keys made?

Yes. A second key added in the same visit runs $85 to $260, because the security access is already open. Leaving with one key means the next loss costs the full no-spare price again.

Get a Real Number for Your Car

If your only key is gone anywhere in Plano, Frisco, McKinney, Allen, Richardson or Garland, call or text (945) 307-3827 with your year, make and model. We will tell you which row of the table you are in before we drive out.

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Written by the Plano Locksmith Automotive Locksmith Team - mobile automotive key cutting, programming and immobilizer work across Plano and Collin County.